More ingredients to be restricted in cosmetic ingredients

Some ingredients in your products are slated to be banned or restricted by Health Canada. Here’s a breakdown.

Health Canada is proposing to update the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. Updates include additions, changes to the conditions for existing entries and changes to include new substance identifiers or make minor corrections.

You are invited to provide feedback to the proposals directly to Health Canada before October 11, 2023.

On the list to be prohibited include:

Temporary hair colour additive: Basic Green 4 (malachite green and its salts), also known as Malachite green; CI 42000; malachite green hydrochloride; malachite green oxalate.

Basic Green 4, also known as Malachite Green, is an organic compound that is primarily used as a dye. While it’s used in various industries, its usage in cosmetics is quite limited due to potential health concerns. However, it might be found in certain cosmetic products in low concentrations, mostly for its coloring properties.

In cosmetics, it might be used in:

Hair Dyes: Basic Green 4 may be used in certain hair dye products due to its strong coloring properties.

Makeup: Some types of eye makeup or other cosmetic products might use Basic Green 4 as a colorant.

Nail Polishes: The dye might be used in some nail polish formulations for its coloring properties.

Hair perming ingredient Thioglycolic acid esters, also known as Glyceryl thioglycolate; Isooctyl thioglycolate.

Thioglycolic acid esters are being considered for addition to the list of substances described as prohibited due to increased skin sensitization. Glyceryl thioglycolate can remain on permed hair for at least 3 months after the procedure. Continuous exposure increases the risk for developing skin sensitization and long-lasting dermatitis for people who are already sensitized.

Thioglycolic acid esters, also known as thioglycolates, are compounds derived from thioglycolic acid. They are commonly used in the cosmetic industry due to their potent reducing properties. Here are a few examples of their applications:

Hair Perming Solutions: Thioglycolates are often used in hair perming solutions. They break down the disulfide bonds in the hair’s keratin structure, allowing the hair to be reshaped. Once the hair has been set in its new shape, an oxidizing agent is applied to reform the disulfide bonds and lock the hair in its new shape.

Hair Removal Products: Thioglycolic acid esters are used in some hair removal creams. They work similarly to hair perming solutions by breaking down the proteins in the hair, which causes the hair to separate easily from the skin.

Nail Treatment: Some nail treatment products use thioglycolates to improve the flexibility and strength of the nails.

While thioglycolates are effective in these uses, they can potentially cause skin irritation and sensitization, meaning they can lead to allergic reactions with repeated exposure. For this reason, they should be used as directed, and individuals should avoid using products containing thioglycolates if they have sensitive skin, have a known allergy to these substances, or have experienced a reaction to them in the past.

On the list to be restricted include:

Benzophenone – restricted to a maximum level of 3%.

Benzophenone is a type of compound that’s often used in cosmetics and personal care products for its ability to absorb ultraviolet (UV) light. This makes it useful in products that are designed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of sunlight. Here are some of the main uses:

Sunscreens: Benzophenone can help to absorb UV light, which makes it a common ingredient in sunscreens. It can help to prevent the sun’s UV rays from damaging the skin, which can lead to sunburn and other forms of skin damage.

Nail Polish: Benzophenone is used in some nail polishes as it prevents the color from fading when exposed to sunlight.

Lip Balms: Similar to sunscreens, some lip balms contain benzophenone to provide a level of protection against UV rays.

Fragrances and Soaps: Benzophenone is sometimes used in fragrances and soaps to prevent them from breaking down and losing their scent when exposed to UV light.

p-Chloro-m-cresol – Not permitted in cosmetics intended to be used on or around mucosal membranes such as eyes, nose or mouth.

p-Chloro-m-cresol (PCMC) is an organic compound used in a variety of cosmetic and personal care products. Its primary function in these products is as a preservative due to its antimicrobial properties. Preservatives are important in cosmetics as they prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi, ensuring the product remains safe and effective to use over time.

Some examples of products that may use p-Chloro-m-cresol include:

Soaps and Cleansers: Given its antimicrobial properties, PCMC can be found in soaps and other cleansing products to help them remain fresh and safe to use.

Creams and Lotions: PCMC may be used in creams, lotions, and other similar products to prevent microbial contamination, especially in products that may be repeatedly exposed to the environment during use.

Shampoos and Conditioners: Similar to creams and lotions, shampoos, and conditioners may also contain PCMC as a preservative.

Deodorants and Antiperspirants: PCMC is also found in some deodorants and antiperspirants, as these products require a strong preservative system due to their typical use conditions.

Retinal, also known as Retinaldehyde: Leave-on products intended for full body application maximum .01%

Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is a form of vitamin A and is one of the compounds that falls under the category of retinoids. It’s a key component in the visual cycle, which allows the eye to convert light into a nerve signal that the brain interprets as vision. It’s also crucial for skin health and is used in cosmetics and skin care products for its beneficial properties.

Here are some product types that might use retinal:

Anti-Aging Products: Retinal is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products because of its ability to stimulate collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin texture.

Acne Treatments: Retinal has also been found effective in treating acne due to its properties that help in skin cell turnover and regulation of oil production.

Skin-Brightening Products: Because retinal can accelerate cell turnover, it can help to fade hyperpigmentation and give the skin a brighter, more even appearance.

Eye Creams: Retinal may be used in eye creams due to its effectiveness in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Solvent Violet 13, also known as CI 60725 or Violet 2: All product except nail products limited to 0.3%

Solvent Violet 13 is a synthetic dye that is often used in industrial applications for its coloring properties. It’s part of the Solvent Dyes category, which are soluble in organic solvents and typically used to color oils, waxes, and plastics.

In cosmetics, Solvent Violet 13 could be used in a variety of ways, although its use may be limited and regulated due to safety considerations. Here are a few examples:

Hair Dyes: Solvent Violet 13 might be used in some hair dye products to give a specific color or shade to the product.

Nail Polishes: This dye could also be used in nail polish formulations for its coloring properties.

Makeup: Solvent Violet 13 could potentially be used in certain types of cosmetics as a colorant, like in lipsticks or eyeshadows.

What is the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist?

The Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist is a list that tells makeup and cosmetic companies what substances should not be in their products. These substances might break rules in the Food and Drugs Act or the Cosmetic Regulations. Sometimes, these substances can also make a product not count as a “cosmetic” under the law.

Health Canada, which takes care of this list, updates it regularly. The last time they updated it was in August 2022. The list doesn’t include everything, so companies should not wait for an update to make sure their products are safe. If a company finds out one of their cosmetics might cause harm, they should stop selling it immediately.

Health Canada proposes changes to the Hotlist based on solid evidence, including scientific research and the opinions of experts from Canada and other countries.

Now, they are suggesting some changes to the Hotlist and want people to give their opinions for the next 90 days. After this time, they will consider all the feedback, make final changes, and then publish the updated list. They will also let people know through their mailing list and those who have previously filled a form about a cosmetic product.

Photo credits: Wikipedia, Pexels.